BY culture@winesalon.com.au 2/2/2010 4:20 PM 

 
 

We had a fantastic Sunday afternoon with the Levins at Libertine.  The restaurant kindly opened up specifically for us and we had a lively crew along for the event, who were regaled with David and Lynne’s stories about building an Aussie tin-shed-winery in the Loire and using draft horses to work the vineyards.  The whole day had a bit of a new world/old world feel: the French/Antipodean stylistic melange of the wines were complemented by Libertine’s sophisticated modern take on the Gallic classics.

 

We proceeded, a bit off message, with our own Champagne Michel Gonet Brut Réserve NV (but who doesn’t like a little bubbles to start?) and two little Chinese spoons of deliciousness –

Poached Langoustine Tail And Rouille Cocktail – that were rather indelicately licked by the guests.

 

We then got into the really good stuff.  David’s had a vision to create a super-premium Sauvignon Blanc for twenty years and he’s so pleased to have it come to fruition (even though it’s probably the least commercial project he’s been involved in).  The Levin ‘Mister L’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008 had all the bells and whistles during production, as well as a little oak contact, so it’s richness and balance worked perfectly with the potency of the goat’s cheese tart, Roast Pear And Chabichou Feuilletée.  There’s only a few dozen in the country, which were eagerly snapped up by the guests.

 

Next, we enjoyed the ‘classic’ Levin Sauvignon Blanc 2007, a wonderful fusion of Sancerre and Marlborough characters that even got the thumbs up from the (affectionately dubbed) Noisy New Zealanders table and it’s new little sister, the Le Vin De Levin Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay Chenin Blanc 2008, a lovely, delicate, refreshing blend.  This came out with the visually stunning Crisp Courgette Flower And Cured Ocean Trout – the slightly salty, oily flavours working beautifully with the crisp wines.

 

Finally, we introduced a good proportion of the guests to the Gamay grape (you might know it from Beaujolais).  The Levin Rosé 2007 is all rose petal and Turkish Delight on the nose, with summer berries and a tight, dry, Provencal finish.  It has more than a little spice, echoed in the Le Vin De Levin Gamay Cabernet Franc Côt 2008, which is elegantly structured, with a potent berry and earthy flavour profile that both worked wonderfully with the Four Spiced Duck – prepare two ways – with Plums And Beetroot.

 

We finished with coffee (a little more wine) and some delicious Apple Jelly Turkish Delight.  Both the wines and the restaurant collected more than a few admirers.
 

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