On a recent trip to New York, rugged up against post-blizzard conditions I found myself drawn to a van emblazoned with the alluring words ‘Endless Summer’. Combined with bright lights and small crowd gathered around it, this van promised a warm oasis in the blisteringly cold night. Yet, it was with some trepidation that I approached the small window. I have lived long enough to know there are few things one should eat from a van. Hot jam doughnuts at Vic Market are an exception, choc-nut dipped soft-serve from Mr. Whippy another. But what about that dry, rock solid and cold ‘gourmet’ hotdog you had at the footy? Or the lamb kebab, no onions but plenty of salmonella from that petrol station car park? But all van prejudices were soon forgotten as I walked away with a warming parcel of fish, cilantro, onions, Cotija cheese, lime and crema nursed in a pair of soft corn tortillas for just $2.  It was Mexican unlike I’ve ever experienced. It tasted nothing like the Mexico you find in an El Paso taco kit, or the Mexico of Taco Bill. It was Mexico the New York way and I was in love. 

So you can imagine how my heart leapt when I caught wind of the much hyped Mamasita.  This brain child of Matt Lane and Jason Jones brings promises of real Mexican cuisine, via South America and New York. And it delivers… eventually. Much like van dining, there were some hits and some misses; The Chili relleno failed to impress with a somewhat dry stuffing, and the Camarones gigante a la ajillo, while tasty were a familiar take on garlic prawns. The Ensalada de Nopales was more interesting, not just for the novelty of eating cactus and the Elotes callejeros offered a delicious spin on corn on the cob.   But it was the tacos I will go back for, specifically the Taco de Pescado. It is here you will find Lane’s work experience at a New York tacqueria most obvious, and with one bite I was instantly transported back to my favourite New York borough. The lime and red onion salsa work wonders with the firm fish, but go easy on the hot sauce as this sweet and sour balance is easily forgotten as you try to douse the fire in your mouth with a generous swig of grapefruit margarita. Rather than wait the 45-mins for a table, I recommend perching yourself at the bar instead, taco in one hand, drink in the other, enjoying Mexican the way it should be… New York-style… in the Paris end of Melbourne.

Mamasita: Level 1, 11 Collins St • Melbourne • AUS • Open 6 Days • +61 3 9650 3821